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凡以小吃品种冠名的人，都有一手绝活儿。“馄饨侯”其人，姓侯名庭杰。小时卖过报纸，青年时当过几年铁路巡警养家糊口。后来偷学到制作馄饨的技艺，又博采众长，1946年用平时积攒的钱，摆起了一个馄饨摊，几经易地最后搬到了东安门大街16号门前摆摊卖馄饨。摊位的后墙挂着一个布帐子，帐子底色是紫红色，上面写着醒目的“馄饨侯”三个大字。帐子周围是一圈和平鸽装饰。因当时正是抗美援朝时期，这群鸽子象征着和平，代表了个体商家盼望和平和社会安定的心情。

当年的东安门、王府井就是京城最繁华的商业区，有人民艺术剧院、东安市场、吉祥戏院等。要是晚上一散戏，街上的行人熙熙攘攘。加上散戏后人们都愿意吃点夜宵，在这里挑灯卖馄饨的足有七八个摊儿，迎来北往的客人，有不少顾客专找馄饨侯的摊。当时人们对馄饨侯的评价有四：一皮薄、二馅细、三汤鲜、四人缘。就说他擀的馄饨皮吧，这个活十分辛苦，不用标准粉，而是特批定量供应的富强粉。和面醒面之后，要用一米多长的擀面杖，擀成薄如纸、半透明的馄饨皮。

据说有一次郭沫若同志路过馄饨侯的摊，在品尝过馄饨后，竖起大拇指连赞其好。郭老看到侯庭杰包馄饨的熟练程度不禁赞道：“包的这样快，这么漂亮，可否告知这有个什么讲头儿。”侯庭杰风趣地回答：“这可称为‘鱼儿蹦’。”此后，不少文艺界的名角常来光顾。“馄饨侯”的名声也就不胫而走了。

到了1956年合作化、公私合营时，散落在东华门、菜厂、大纱帽胡同口儿上的七家馄饨摊：侯家、梁家、王家、陈家、闻家和两位张家的馄饨摊成立起一个合作小组。大家推举侯庭杰为组长。到了1959年，这七位摊主觉得老在外头摆摊并非长久之计，决定开个门脸，在区商管会帮助下，选重德胜祥烧饼铺（即现在的馄饨老房），合到一起卖馄饨。有了门脸得起个字号呀，大家一合计，侯庭杰精明能干又是组长，干脆字号就叫“馄饨侯”吧。于是申请注册，找了个牌子，涂上白漆，上写北京风味“馄饨侯”。从此，“馄饨侯”这个字号诞生了。本来是街头小吃走进了店堂，深受北京人喜欢，买卖十分红火。“馄饨侯”老职工陈宝增老人曾写过一篇回忆文章《我为总理做馄饨》。那是在1960年年初，周恩来总理出访印度，当时的印度总理尼赫鲁邀请周总理品尝了印度的馄饨。尼赫鲁回访中国时，周总理在人民大会堂宴请，特意安排了一道地方风味小吃，即“馄饨侯”京味馄饨。

上世纪六十年代初，“馄饨侯”在“文革”中受到冲击。创始人之一的张世兰老人回忆往事时亲切地称侯庭杰为“侯儿”。说侯儿因为“馄饨侯”这个字号挨过批斗，造反派说这个字号有“封存资修”色彩，把“馄饨侯”改名叫“四新”饭馆，馄饨也不是主营了，改卖面条、盖浇饭和窝窝头。顾客进店除了自己买票、端饭外，还要自己去洗碗。直到1980年才恢复了这个老字号。

如今的“馄饨侯”生产馄饨要按店训说的，即“用料务求精心细选，制作更需屏气凝神”。“馄饨侯”的一碗馄饨里，包括面皮、肉馅、骨汤、作料，其中包含量化数据上百个。首先用料从源头把关。先说馄饨皮，用的是廊雪面粉，所以馄饨皮薄如蝉翼，将馄饨皮放在报纸上能清晰地显现出字迹来。“馄饨侯”的馄饨馅，制作更加认真，三分肥七分瘦，自己绞馅，肉质细腻鲜香。“馄饨侯”的汤更是一绝，要花费6个小时的时间熬成，汤口讲究味浓不油腻，由于棒骨汤含有钙质，许多老人也是冲着这个来的。“馄饨侯”的作料讲个“全”字，有紫菜、香菜、冬菜、虾皮、蛋皮丝儿等。“馄饨侯”为了淘换冬菜没少跑腿，最后在河北清县找到了生产厂家，眼下清县坛装冬菜成了“馄饨侯”的特供品。煮馄饨和过去也大不一样，以前是将一簸箕包好的馄饨往大锅里一倒，煮好后，连馄饨带汤往碗里一倒，就算齐了。现在用特制小篓（一篓10个）单煮，且分菜肉、虾肉、鲜肉、红油和酸汤若干种口味儿。以前顾客进店门先买牌，自己到端饭口端馄饨，现在是服务到桌。

Everyone named after the variety of snacks has a unique job. "Wonton Hou" is a person whose surname is Hou MINGTING Jie. I sold newspapers when I was young, and worked as a railway patrol officer for several years to support my family. Later, I learned the skills of making wonton secretly and learned from others. In 1946, I set up a wonton stall with the money I usually saved. After several changes, I finally moved to No. 16 gate of dong'anmen street to set up a stall to sell wonton. There is a cloth tent hanging on the back wall of the stall. The bottom color of the tent is purple red. There are three big words "wonton Hou" written on it. Around the tent was a circle of doves of peace. At that time, it was the period of resisting U.S. aggression and aiding Korea. These pigeons symbolized peace, and represented the mood of individual businesses looking forward to peace and social stability. Dong'anmen and Wangfujing were the most prosperous commercial areas in Beijing, including the people's Art Theater, Dong'an Market, Jixiang theater, etc. If the play is over in the evening, the streets are bustling with people. In addition, after the opera, people are willing to eat some night snack. There are seven or eight stalls selling wonton with lights on here, and many customers are looking for wonton Hou's stall. At that time, people's evaluation of wonton Hou had four aspects: one thin skin, two thin fillings, three fresh soup and four people's affinity. Let's say that he rolled the wonton skin. It's a very hard job. Instead of standard powder, it's a special batch of rich and strong powder for quantitative supply. After mixing the noodles, use a rolling pin more than one meter long to roll them into a thin, translucent wonton skin. It is said that once Comrade Guo Moruo passed wonton Hou's stall, and after tasting wonton, he thumbed up and praised it. Seeing Hou Tingjie's wonton wrapping proficiency, Guo Lao couldn't help but praise: "the wrapping is so fast and beautiful. Can you tell me what the leader is about?" "It's called 'fish jumping'," Hou replied wittily Since then, many famous figures in the literary and art circles have come to visit. The reputation of "wonton Hou" also spread. In 1956, when the cooperative and public-private partnership took place, seven wonton stalls scattered in Donghuamen, Caichang and Dashama hutongkou were established: Hou's, Liang's, Wang's, Chen's, Wen's and two Zhangjia's. We elected Hou Tingjie as the group leader. In 1959, the seven stall owners decided to open a door to sell wonton with the help of the district business management committee. With a good face, we can afford a brand name. As soon as we add up, Hou Tingjie is the leader of the group. Let's call the brand name "wonton Hou". So I applied for registration, found a brand, painted with white paint, and wrote "wonton Hou" with Beijing flavor. Since then, "wonton Hou" was born. Originally, street snacks came into the store, which were popular with Beijing people, and the business was very popular. Chen Baozeng, an old employee of "wonton Hou", once wrote a recollection article "I make wonton for premier". At the beginning of 1960, Premier Zhou Enlai visited India. At that time, Indian Prime Minister Nehru invited Premier Zhou to taste Indian wonton. During Nehru's return visit to China, Premier Zhou held a banquet in the Great Hall of the people and specially arranged a local flavor snack, namely "wonton Hou" Beijing style wonton. In the early 1960s, "wonton Hou" was impacted in the "Cultural Revolution". When Zhang Shilan, one of the founders, recalled the past, he affectionately called Hou Tingjie "hou'er". Hou'er was criticized for his "wonton Hou". The rebels said that the name of the "wonton Hou" was "sealed for repair". They changed the name of "wonton Hou" to "four new" restaurant. Wonton is not the main business anymore. It sells noodles, covers rice and buns. In addition to buying tickets and carrying meals, customers also have to wash dishes themselves. It was not until 1980 that the old brand was restored. Today's "wonton Hou" production of wonton according to the store's motto, that is, "the material is carefully selected, making more need to hold your breath.". "Wonton Hou" in a bowl of wonton, including pasta, meat, bone soup, seasoning, which contains hundreds of quantitative data. First of all, use materials to check from the source. First of all, the wonton skin is made of Langxue flour, so it's as thin as cicada wings. Putting the wonton skin on the newspaper can clearly show the handwriting. The wonton filling of "wonton Hou" is made more seriously. It's three parts fat and seven parts thin. It's minced by itself. The meat is delicate and delicious. The soup of "wonton Hou" is even more unique. It takes six hours to boil. The soup is tasteful and not greasy. Because the soup contains calcium, many old people come here. The ingredients of "wonton Hou" include laver, coriander, winter vegetable, shrimp skin, egg skin, etc. "Wonton Hou" ran errands to exchange winter vegetables. At last, he found a manufacturer in Qingxian County, Hebei Province. At present, the winter vegetables in the jar of Qingxian County have become a special offering of "wonton Hou". Cooking wonton is also very different from the past. In the past, we used to pour a dustpan wrapped wonton into a large pot. After cooking, we even pour wonton soup into a bowl, even if it's all there. Now, we use a special small basket (10 baskets) to cook alone, and it can be divided into vegetable meat, shrimp meat, fresh meat, red oil and sour soup. In the past, customers bought the brand before entering the store. They brought wonton to duanfankou. Now it's service to the table.

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